New York Fashion Week: Designers Reimagine Dress Codes with Twists and Tributes

From protective fashion to American power dressing, designers at New York Fashion Week showcase innovative and nostalgic takes on traditional dress codes.

As New York Fashion Week unfolds across Manhattan and Brooklyn, designers are offering enticing twists on familiar dress codes. From rethinking “protective” fashion to updating American classics, the runway is filled with innovative designs that challenge norms and pay tribute to heritage. This season’s collections feature everything from silk bubble wrap trousers to lace-trimmed boxing shorts, showcasing the creativity and diversity of the fashion industry.

Rethinking “Protective” Fashion

Peter Do, in his sophomore showing at Helmut Lang, presents a collection that redefines “protective” fashion. Silk bubble wrap trousers, knit balaclavas emerging from smart suiting, and slouchy puffer jackets provide a fresh take on garments designed to shield and comfort. Do’s use of weathered sand-colored denim and soft armor adds a unique touch to his avant-garde collection.

Femme Flex: Delightfully Feminine Sports Uniforms

Collina Strada’s collection, titled “Collina’s Gym,” challenges traditional sports uniforms and gymwear. Models wearing lace-trimmed boxing shorts and voluminous jackets that mimic bulging deltoids and biceps showcase a delightfully feminine take on athletic attire. The collection promotes the belief that “femme is flex” and incorporates sustainable practices with the use of deadstock fabrics and corn leather UGGs.

Updating American Classics

Tommy Hilfiger’s return to the runway brings new takes on prep classics that the brand established in the 1990s. Box tweed coats, varsity jackets, cashmere dresses, and long, bulky scarves redefine American prep for 2024. Willy Chavarria, drawing on his experience at Calvin Klein and his own label, presents a bold vision of American power dressing. Exaggerated shoulders, sharp lapels, and sweeping coats with Chicano-influenced flair showcase his unique perspective.

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The Stories We Tell: Inspiration from Community and Heritage

Prabal Gurung draws inspiration from his childhood diaries and heritage to create a collection that pays tribute to his father’s family in Nepal. Richly colored garments embellished with crystals and gold embroidery reflect Gurung’s exploration of transformation and metamorphosis. The designer prioritizes storytelling over chasing trends, aiming to share a piece of his world with the audience.

Conclusion: New York Fashion Week continues to push boundaries and reimagine dress codes. Designers showcase their creativity through innovative twists on traditional fashion, while also paying homage to heritage and community. From rethinking “protective” fashion to updating American classics, these collections offer a glimpse into the diverse and ever-evolving world of fashion. As the week unfolds, we can expect more surprises and inspirations from the runway.